Patchwork Cards Tutorial


Materials Needed:

  • pencil
  • several prints from a charm pack (or scraps of fabric)
  • fusible webbing (I use Heat ‘n Bond Lite. There are other brands (Wonder Under, Stitch Witchery), but if the glue is too heavy, it can gum up your needle.  From several emails, there seems to be some confusion about fusible webbing.  It is NOT interfacing.  Fusible webbing turns your fabric into an iron-on.)
  • cardstock rectangles cut into 4 1/4-inch x 5 1/4-inch rectangles (this is the paper that you will sew the fabric to.  Then, this piece will be taped to the front of a card)
  • 4 1/2-inch x 5 1/2-inch cards (this is what you get when you cut an 8×11 sheet in half and fold it)
  • scissors for cutting paper
  • double-sided tape
  • rotary cutter (optional)
  • cutting mat (optional)


Step 1:  Cut out squares of fusible webbing.


Since fabric in charm packs come in 5-inch x 5-inch pieces, I measure and draw a grid on my fusible webbing just a bit smaller at 4 7/8 inches x 4 7/8 inches.


Cut out the fusible webbing squares with your paper-cutting scissors.  The paper will dull your good sewing scissors.

Step 2:  Iron fusible webbing to the back of fabric


Place the fabric right side DOWN on the ironing board.  Place the sticky side of the fusible webbing onto the back of the fabric with the paper side up.  Iron on according to fusible webbing instructions (just a few seconds on medium heat in my case).


Step 3:  Peel away the paper backing.




Step 4:  Cut the fabric into quarters 


Cut the fabric into 2 1/2 inch squares


Step 5:  Fuse the fabric to the paper rectangles




Make sure when the piece goes off the edge that you don’t fuse the fabric to the ironing board cover.


Pretty soon, you’ll have something that looks like this:



Turn the paper over and trim the extra fabric off.


Don’t throw those little pieces away because most of them can be used.  For example, this little triangle…


…can go at the top left corner:



Continue to fuse and trim and iron down the edges until the front of the card is covered. Notice how my peicing isn’t perfect?  The decorative stitches will cover up some of these imperfections.

Step 6: Sew decorative stitches onto the “seams”.


I chose a gold thread to go with the fall colors. I like high-contrast threads as well that make the decorative stitches pop.

My favorite stitch these days is the sewn-out zig-zag.

Sewing through paper on a sewing machine will dull the needle.  I keep a needle specifically for this purpose and put a sharp one back in when I go back to sewing fabric.


Step 7:  Edgestitch the card with a straight stitch.wuthering-heights-card.JPG




Step 8 (optional):  Embelish with buttons, ribbon, etc.

Step 9: Stick “quilt” to the front of card using double-sided tape.

Here are some samples of other colors and styles:



Faded Memories with blue button.



Martha Negley’s Cupcake Fabric with little loop stitches.



April Cornell’s Poetry fabric.



Faded Memories fabric.

Copyright 2006 CraftApple

Chenille Backed Blanket Tutorial

This is a great first project for the begining sewer, and makes a great baby gift.

1. You need to start off with 1 piece of chenille cut 36″x36″ and 1 piece of cotton or flannel cut to 36″x36″.  For this tutorial, my chenille is actually 2 colors of chenille sewn together and cut to the correct size.


2. Line up the pieces, RIGHT sides together and pin to secure around the outside.  Sew with a 1/2″ seam around the entire outside of the square, leaving an 8″ hole in the middle of a side for turning.


The hole for turning:


3. Snip the corners.  Cut near, but not on the threads making up the corner.

step-4a.jpg step-4b.jpg

4. Turn the blanket right side out through the hole.  Iron a nice, crisp crease into the edges.


5. Fold over the raw edges of the open hole ~1/2″, iron and pin the openning closed.  Set aside.


6. Select a decorative stitch to stitch around the outside of the blanket (a zigzag stitch looks nice).  Get some scraps of similar fabric layers to practice the stitch, adjusting length and width until you are satisfied with how it looks.  This is my practice piece:


7. Sew with your decorative stitch all the way around the outside of the blanket, closing up the hole as you go.


8. Snip threads and YOU’RE DONE!


Close up of the decorative stitching:


9. Take a nice picture for your blog.


All rolled up and ready for gifting!


Other options:

Instead of chenille on one side, try flannel for both sides.

Try using pre-peiced cotton on one side for a blanket that looks like a quilt.


If using a sheet, you may need to anchor the sheet and chenille together in the center.  This would be the final step of the process.  Some sheets tend to be polished so that they don’t grip the chenille as well as regular cotton fabrics.

See previous post about using a walking foot when sewing with chenille.

The Lindie Bag (Free Purse Pattern)

To the home sewer:  I have been asked by several people if they may make this bag for sale.  The answer is YES, you may!  I maintain my copyright on the pattern (instructions and pictures), but please feel free to create this bag and sell it!

The Lindie Bag

 Finished size:  6½” tall (14½” if you include straps), 6″ wide, 3 ” deep

In all measurements, width is listed first, followed by length.

All seam allowances are ½” unless otherwise noted.

Fabric Requirements:

2 fat quarters, although more fabric will be needed for centering a design.

Materials Requirements:

½ yard medium-weight fusible interfacing

small piece (~6¼” x 2¼”) of stabilizer (Peltex 70 or Timtex)

1.  Prepare fabric.  Wash, dry and press all fabric.  Fuse interfacing to WRONG sides of all fabric.

 Lindie Bag 1In above picture, pink fabric is for the exterior fabric and green is the interior fabric.

 2.  Cut fabric pieces.

Cut fabric for bag:  10″ x 17″

Cut 1 piece of exterior fabric

Cut 1 piece of liner fabric

Cut fabric for inside pocket

Cut 1 piece of liner fabric 6 ½” x 8 ½”

Cut fabric for handles

Cut 2 pieces of exterior fabric 3″ x 19″

Cut stabilizer

Cut 1 piece 6 ¼” x 2 ¼”

3. Make pocket.  Fold pocket piece in half with RIGHT sides together  so that it measures 6 ½” x 4 ¼” and secure with pins.  Starting at one side of the fold, sew up one side, stopping ½” from the edge.  Turn the pocket piece and sew across the top, leaving a 1 ½” opening at the top for turning.  Sew to the next corner, stopping ½” from the edge.  Turn the pocket piece and finish sewing the remaining side.  Clip corners and turn the pocket right side out, pushing corners out with a narrow tool.  Iron the pocket flat and select one side to be the top.  Edgestitch with a 1/8″ seam allowance across the top of the pocket.

4.  Attach pocket to the liner.  Position the pocket on the liner piece 2 ¼” from both side edges and 1 ¾” from a top short edge.  Secure pocket in place with pins.  Attach the pocket to the liner by edgestitch with a 1/8″ seam allowance around the 2 sides and bottom of the pocket, backstitching at beginning and end for a secure hold.

Lindie Bag 2

The pen is intended to show the position  of the pocket.

5. Assemble bag liner.  Fold liner in half RIGHT sides together and secure with pins.  Sew up the 2 sides, leaving the top open.  Snip open the corner seam as shown.

Lindie Bag 3

Box corners by laying the side seam against the bottom of the bag.

Lindie Bag 4

See this post for additional pictures and explanation on boxing corners.

Measure 1½” from the top of the snipped seam using a ruler as shown. Mark a line perpendicular to the side seam and pin in place.  Sew on this line, backstitching at the beginning and end.  Note that a triangle is formed when boxing the corner this way.  Trim this triangle off with pinking shears after sewing.  Set aside.

6. Assemble  bag exterior.  Sew exterior piece just as liner above (sewing up both sides and boxing corners but do not trim off the triangular pieces.  Lay the stabilizer piece across the bottom of the bag and pin to the triangular pieces on the bottom of the bag exterior.  Sew the interlining to the triangles.

Lindie Bag 5

7.  Make the straps.  Press in ½” on both long sides of the strap pieces.  Fold strap in half and press again.  Secure with pins.  Edgestich along long open edge of straps.

Lindie Bag 6

8. Attach straps to liner.  With the right side of the liner facing in, pin straps to inside of liner 1 ½” from the side seam as shown.  Make sure the straps are hanging inside the bag toward the bottom.  Turn the liner so that the right side of the fabric is facing out.  Baste the straps in place with a ¼” seam.


9.  Assemble the bag.  Place the liner inside the exterior of the bag so that the right sides of the fabrics are facing each other, making sure that the straps are hanging down in between the 2 layers.  Line up the side seams and pin in place.  Pin around the top of the bag.  Starting on the middle edge of a strap, sew across the strap and around the top of the bag, stopping just after the 4th strap, leaving an opening for turning between the straps.  Backstitch at the beginning and end so that the stitches won’t unravel during turning.

10. Turn the bag.  Carefully turn the bag right side out through the opening, pushing all the corners out.  Push the lining into the exterior of the bag.

11.  Finish the bag.  Press around the top of the bag for a crisp edge, pressing fabric in ½” at the opening.  Pin the opening closed.  Edgestich with a 1/8″ seam along the top of the bag.

12.  Press in the creases.  Iron in creases along the bottom edges of the bag and up all four corners (from the bottom corner to the top edge) of the bag.  You’re finished!

Care.  As with any fabric bag, you may periodically want to press creases back into the bag or press wrinkles out of the fabric.

Enjoy your new bag!

©  2007 Craft Apple Creations